My Basic Approach To The Build
Rarely
(if ever) will I use anything more than a 6 ply shell for one simple reason.
Thin
shells resonate better!
Take two cardboard rolls (one standard towel and and one industrial tape)
of the same diameter and cut them to the same length. The towel roll is about a third the thickness of the tape roll. Now
hold them by the end and tap them.
The towel roll had a dramatically
lower tone than the tape role because the thinner walled tube resonates better.
The same thing holds true with drums shells.
I
get huge sounds from small diameter, lightweight kits.
The
downside?
Thin walled shells can flex under tuning pressures, go oval and ckoke. Also, the thin
contact point on the batter and resonant baring edges doesn’t make for great projection. There’s a simple way
to overcome these issues which brings us to:
Why I Reinforce My Drums
I reinforce shells for four reasons.
1.Increased shell integrity thwarts choking.
2.Thicker
baring edges make better contact and transsion down the shell wall.
3.More wood allows me to custom
form of the batter edge for individual application.
4.It compells the shell into a perfect round.
You’ve
seen reinforced shells but they're not like mine. Look closely. Notice the point at which the reinforcement hoop
joins. It’s always cut to an angled overlap and then glued in.
Now
look at mine.
They’re “butt joined” and pressure
fit by hand into each drum.
Pressure
fitting compells the drum into a near perfect round. And, assuming that the heads we use are also perfectly round, it
allows for unencumbered resonance.
The addition of 3,4,5 or 6
ply’s of reinforcement, fattens the baring edges and enables me to fine tune that drum to the customers spec’s.
By manipulating a round over to the outside and the cut to the inside, almost any sound can be achieved and
(Depending on application) I can hand form the edge to control the decay rate of that drum.
I
can shorten sustain (my personal favorite ) or make it ring for 5 or 6 seconds.
This
is particularly critical when playing live and the reason I designed Boom Theory sets to excel in live conditions. Most of
the drums I build end up on stage and a resonant shell with short decay is an engineer’s wet dream.
If you've spent any recording, you'll know
the first thing the tech wants to do is tape your heads! Why? Cause under mic’ing conditions your average
acoustic drum rings way more than needed to allow for good recording.
I
compensate for this by reducing the area that I refer to a “passive harmonics zone”. It's the area that acts
as a tuning fork between the outer baring edge and the flesh hoop and I discovered it durring R&D for the Bridgedeck
X Series snare.
The results? Stuff
that used to get lost in the mix as mud now comes thorough the PA loud and clear. Most noticeable is the articulation you
now experience from your rack and floor toms.
Fit,
Finish and Focus
I use low mass, billet zinc
or aluminum lugs.
I like stamped, 2.3mm triple flanged super hoops on pretty much everything but will on occasion
use a die cast hoop on the snare.
I use 12 lugs per tom up to a 14” diameter and 16 lugs per bass drum up to 22”.
All my bass’s utilize 8 or 10 ply counter hoops.
I prefer a wrapped drum to a stained or painted because I really hear the focus of a wrapped shell.
However, several new paints I seen recently that are very thick, could be the best of both worlds and I may be tempted to
offer them. I’ll keep ya posted.
Prices
Acoustic pricing is quoted on a per order basis and average 5 pc set start around
$1800.
Options
Like building a high performance motorcycle, money
is speed.
And so it is wih custom drums.
All things are possible if you have the means to do it : )